Spring (March–May)
Mild, bright and the most photographed time of year. Cherry blossom moves north over several weeks and is impossible to time precisely; treat it as a bonus rather than the plan. Accommodation is expensive and books out early.
Summer (June–August)
Hot and humid in the cities, with a rainy season in early summer across most of the country. It is also the season of festivals, mountain hiking and the north — Hokkaido is at its best while Kyoto is at its most punishing.
Autumn (September–November)
Our favourite window. Clear air, comfortable temperatures and autumn colour that arrives later and lasts longer than the blossom. November in Kyoto is spectacular and correspondingly busy.
Winter (December–February)
Cold but dry in most of Honshū, with the clearest views of Mount Fuji all year, fewer visitors and lower prices. Snow country and Hokkaido are a different trip entirely — and a very good one.
The short answer
- First trip, best balance: late October to early December.
- Blossom and warmth: late March to mid-April, booked far ahead.
- Value and clear skies: January and February.
- Mountains, festivals and the north: July and August.
